Traveling to Southeast Asia can be a life-changing experience. It can also seem very daunting and scary for a backpacker unfamiliar with Asia. For a lot of people, Southeast Asia is the next step for a backpacker, with Europe being the first, or a stopover on the ever-popular round-the-world trips. For those accustom to getting around Europe, booking hotels or hostel and riding trains from city to city, country to country, Southeast Asia can be quite confusing as to where to start, where to go and what to do, where to stay and how to get around. Worry no more. This short guide to traveling Southeast Asia on the cheep will answer the questions that many have about one of the greatest travel destinations on the planet.
Where to Start
This of course can all depend on where you want to go and what you want to see. There are three major air travel hubs into Southeast Asia: Singapore, Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur. For those looking to traverse the six countries that make up the area most commonly referred to as Southeast Asia (Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam) each travel hub has it’s positives and negatives.
Singapore – Flying into Singapore is probably the most convenient place of entry. Requiring no visa for American citizens, Singapore offers mainland Southeast Asia to the north and Indonesia and ever-popular Bali to the south. Although Indonesia may be only a few miles from Singapore and accessible as some ports by ferry, the majority of travel Indonesia must be reached by flights. Singapore is good hub for flying to the south. If it’s peninsular Southeast Asia you strive for, Singapore is a great place to start. Comfortable buses, some even with WIFI, connect Singapore with Malaysia and ultimately to what lays ahead in the north. Singapore is also a great starting point to get acclimated. Being a first world country, with a national language of English (among others), Singapore can be the stream in which to wet your feet as it is a microcosm of Asia with it’s melting pot of cultures.
Kuala Lumpur – North of Singapore approximately 10 hours by bus is the metropolis of Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, known simply by travelers as ‘KL’. If you want to dive right into the culture shock Southeast Asia can bring, KL is the place to start. It is also Air Asia, the greatest budget airline on the planet’s, hub. From KL, one can connect to every country in Southeast Asia and Eastern Asia via a cheep and comfortable flight, some for as little as 50 $US to Thailand or even further if you book ahead.
Bangkok – Rated one of the best cities to travel in the entire world, Bangkok can be a great starting point to explore Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam if Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia aren’t on your itinerary. From Bangkok one can hop a bus, flight or even the train to many places throughout the subcontinent.
Your budget may also be a deciding factor in where you start. Going from the south to the north one will find the prices getting smaller and smaller. Where the cheapest rooms in Singapore and Malaysia can be five or six dollars, one can seek out rooms costing a little more than two dollars in Laos, Cambodia and even some places in Thailand. This allows for you to get the most expensive part of your journey out of the way first.
How to Get Around?
Getting around Southeast Asia is a piece of cake. It can be sketchy from time to time, but the best advice is just go with it. In the cities your feet are the best means of transportation. Walk until you get lost, pull out your map, locate yourself, and continue on. In major cities like Singapore and Kuala Lumpur, the subway can be quite nice, but in other cities the tuk-tuk will be your friend. Offering dirt cheap rides (again, don’t hesitate to haggle), tuk-tuks or little motorized carts, will be able to take you anywhere you want to go. In some cases you can rent tuk-tuks out for the day. This is especially recommended in Siem Reap, Cambodia to see Angkor Wat, as $10US will get you your own private tuk-tuk for the day.
When it comes to city-to-city or international travel, the buses are the way to go. Many are quite comfortable and nice with air conditioning and even a meal, but some overnight buses can be like sleeping on a bookshelf with a stranger. Still, for $10-$16US, it’s hard to beat the price. Most, if not all, guesthouses will offer transportation. Their all included tickets usually include pickup from the guesthouse and the transportation to get you to the next city. This however, could be in the form of a bus, van, boat or pickup bed—you’ll get there and the adventure is half the fun. You may look at the ticket they give you and wonder, how the hell is this all I need? But you’ll soon realize that you’ll be broken up by destination once you reach various travel hubs. In most cases you’ll be given a sticker that denotes where your final destination is. Don’t lose the sticker! Also try to talk the guesthouse down for the transportation ticket. In many cases you can get the price down at least a couple bucks and if not, don’t feel bad about ducking into the adjacent guesthouse and trying to secure transportation that way.
If you think you’re paying too much for a bus from a guesthouse, get yourself to the bus station, as prices will always be cheaper there for the same trip. Though these wont include all the other sort trips from guesthouse to bus station or from the bus station into town, but it’s worth it for a cheaper price.
In some cases you can also go to travel agencies. Unlike the travel agencies we think of the in the US, these specialize in travel around the country or the surround countries. They can also help with booking boats to islands, elephant treks, or other excursions. Some travel agencies also book private vans to the next city. This can be cost effective only if you’ve banded together with a group of travelers all headed to the same place.
In Thailand the train is also an option. Although it may cost a little more, the ride is very comfortable and is a great way to go from Bangkok to Chang Mai overnight. Just go to the train station and book your trip that way for the cheapest price.
For the more adventurous, the renting of a motobike can be done with nothing more than a deposit. One of the best ways to see Vietnam is to take a motorbike from Hanoi to Saigon or vice versa. They’re also nice for getting around islands like Koh Pangang.
Wanna fly? You’re in luck as Air Asia services all of Southeast Asia. The flights can be very cheap and are very comfortable. You’ll have to pay for baggage and every other luxury, but in most cases the flights aren’t much longer than two or three hours.
Do I Need a Visa?
In most cases no, but there are some countries that require them.
Singapore – No visa required for US
Malaysia – a visa can be acquired at the border and don’t cost anything
Thailand – 15 days if you enter by land and 30 if you enter by air.
Laos – 30 days for about $35US depending on how much the border guard wants.
Cambodia – 30 days for $25-30US. Easily obtained that the border.
Vietnam – visas ARE required and should be obtained at a travel agency for $45US
Burma – visa ARE required but used to offer visa on arrive at Yangon International.
Hong Kong – no visa required for US
China – a heft visa process including an in-depth itinerary and a $150US fee.
Where to Stay?
The most popular backpacker accommodation are guesthouses. Guesthouses are essentially hostels but in most cases you get a little more comfort. Although there are dorm rooms, many of the guesthouses offer dirt cheep single rooms. If you meet fellow travelers along with way, make friends and split the cost of a double room with two beds, as it’ll nearly cut your room cost in half. The rooms aren’t the cleanest and don’t have nearly the amenities (a room I had in Bangkok didn’t even have a wall outlet) but if you want to save money you wont mind. Rooms are usually split into three categories: dorm, fan or air con. It can be an unspeakable relief to have an air conditioner in your room, but it almost doubles the cost of your room. The best advice I can give is to get used to sleeping without an air conditioner and let the fan keep you cool. Also some rooms advertise en suite, which simply means you have a bathroom in your room. Many guesthouses have communal bathrooms and it’s suggested to avoid en suite if you’re looking to save that hard earned cash.
Unlike Europe and the US, the best way to book an accommodation is not on the Internet, as most of the cheaper guesthouses do not have online booking. The ones that do have more expensive prices for the same thing you can find elsewhere. Word of mouth is the best way to discover guesthouses. Talk to other travelers as to where they stayed. Some of then will even admit to staying in a bad place and give you solid advice as to what to avoid. The best way to find a room for the night is to wing it. A Lonely Planet: Southeast Asia on a Shoestring is a vital resource, although you probably wont want to take them up on any guesthouse suggestions as those places hike prices up once they’ve been discovered by LP. When you arrive in a city, flip to the map section of the city you’re in and find where the majority of the guesthouses are. It never fails that the ones listed are only the tip of the guesthouse iceberg. Go from guesthouse to guesthouse until you find the price you want to pay. Don’t think twice about haggling for a cheaper price. Even if you think you’ve got the cheapest price possible, you’ll probably meet a fellow traveler who is staying there for less. Be weary of touts trying to get you back to their guesthouse, as they tend to go back on the original price they offered (especially at Pakbeng where the slowboat stops for the night). This isn’t to say that some of these guesthouse employees are worthy of your time, but rather just be sure you get what you want. If they change their price, always remember that just down the street is another guesthouse that is cheaper than what they offered. Also be weary of tuk-tuk drivers claiming they have a centrally located guesthouse they can take you too. Most are just trying to help out a friend or relative with their guesthouse and you’ll end up miles from the city center.
Banding with other travelers is the best way to get even cheaper rooms. If you have a group of four or more you are likely to get a discount at a guesthouse if you play your bargaining cards right.
Where to Go?
When I was 19 I spend two months backpacking Europe by myself. Before I left I had lists and lists of places I wanted to go and things to see in those places. For example, when I thought of Paris I thought of the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, Arc de Triumph, Notre Dame, rock legend Jim Morrison’s grave and Versailles just to name a few. Before I left for Southeast Asia I was asked what it was I wanted to see. I had all these things I wanted to see in Europe and for some places, Cambodia specifically, I only had one thing in particular I wanted to see—Angkor Wat. To some it may seem like there isn’t much to see in Southeast Asia, but that’s far from reality. I’ve broken down there most popular countries and provided a short list of things to see and do in each one. The most important thing is that see what you want to see. Do a little research before you go and find what interests you.
Singapore
-Food; Singapore is a foodie’s wet dream. With cheep eats all around, you’ll never want to miss a meal!
-Little India; a district of central Singapore that can make you ask yourself, ‘this is Singapore right?’
-The Arab Quarter; another district that is uniquely different than any other.
-The Merlion; Singapore most iconic structure may not be much, but the surrounding area, views of the world’s craziest skyscrapers meshed with historic colonial landings is a must.
-Museums; not everyone’s cup of tea, but Singapore offers some great one. Try the Singapore Art Museum, known as SAM.
-Sentosa Island; for the traveler with more cash to spend, it’s home to Universal Studios and other amusement parks.
-The Singapore Flyer; the largest Ferris wheel-like structure in Asia. The views of the city from night are awe-inspiring.
Malaysia
-Kuala Lumpur; home to the world’s third and fourth tallest buildings (for now), a bustling city atmosphere, and a glimpse of what Southeast Asia will look like in the future, with the old ways surrounding.
-Batu Caves; outside of KL are a popular tourist destination, although the statue outside the caves may be more impressive than the caves themselves.
-The Cameron Highlands; popular with nature lovers, this area south of KL is one of pure beauty and plenty of outdoor activities.
-Melaka; once a Portuguese settlement, Melaka is home to peaceful afternoons, spectacular meals and a bustling night market, all within walking distance.
Thailand
-Bangkok; the city with the most tourist attractions in Southeast Asia you can marvel at the giant reclining gold Buddha at Wat Pho, witness the grandioso palaces, buy any knockoff your heart can imagine on Khao San Road, eat like a king for two dollars and spend a day zipping around on a tuk-tuk for thirty cents.
-Koh Phi Phi; where they filmed the movie The Beach, these two islands could be the most beautiful place on the entire planet.
-Chang Mai; the hub for jungle treks, riding elephants or exploring temples.
-Koh Pangang; where the infamous Full Moon Party takes place. (Not to be missed, backpackers!)
Laos
-Slowboating down the Mekong; this two day boat ride will make you want to put The Doors on your iPod and lose yourself staring off into the muddy waters.
-Luang Prabang; one of my favorite cities in Southeast Asia, you can explore the surrounding waterfalls, shop at the night market day after day and always find something new, or enjoy the great nightlife (up until 11:30 that is.)
-Vang Vieng; a backpacker must. Tube your life away as you float from bar to bar sipping snake whiskey and bailing off of trapeze swings into the water!
-Si Pan Don (The 4000 Islands); one of the most serene places on the planet where women work in rice patties, little kids bathe in the Mekong river, water buffalo block the dirt paths (as there are no roads on most of the islands), all while smoking four dollar bags of ganja lounging in a bungalow overlooking the river that costs less than $2.50US a night!
Cambodia
-Phnom Phen; a place to shock all your senses, you can baffle yourself looking at palaces, cry your eyes out at The Killing Fields and S-21, eat a tarantula on the street, find anything you ever wanted in the Russian Market, and if you make friends with a tuk-tuk driver you maybe invited to their house for dinner or go clubbing into the wee hours of the night.
-Angkor Wat; the most famous temple in all of Southeast Asia is worth the $20 a day entry fee, though you don’t need to spend much more than a day there.
-Siem Reap; eat your heart out on Pub Street with international cuisine and good drinks, or shop the knockoffs at the market.
-Shinouckville; known by many names, this backpacker taken over beach community on the Gulf of Thailand can be like heaven on earth as you lounge on the beach, eat dollar lobster, get wacky with a pizza from Happy Herb’s, watch a movie in the black market movie theatre, or just party the night away and the numerous beach bars.
Vietnam
-Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon); dodge motorbikes as you eat amazing food, and see relics from the Vietnam War
-Ha Long Bay; one of the most beautiful places on earth.
-Hanoi; rent a motorbike of your own and risk you life on the busy streets as you stop into amazing restaurants, haggle at the market or eat street food that you’ll never forget!
Other Places
-Burma; not an easy place to get into, but well worth the effort if you don’t mind a little paranoia. The nicest people in the entire world and a society void of most Western commodities (even Coke-a-Cola and atms!) and not to mention the amazing temples of Bagon, city of Mandalay and the floating gardens on Inlay Lake. Keep in mind that you do have to fly in and fly out and that a visa may be required.
-Hong Kong; a beautiful modern city with the best skyline view in the world. Not requiring a visa, Hong Kong can be a little taste of China, the food, the people and the endless options for a fun night out! Fly in from Bangkok for the cheapest flight.
Wrap Up
Southeast Asia is full of backpackers and you will inevitably meet someone who is doing the exact same trip you are. Sometimes these people are worth traveling with. As they say, two minds are better than one. Have no fears, Southeast Asia is quite accessible to an English monolingual. Learn a few phrases to make your trip easier, but if not don’t fret, you’ll be fine. Yes many of the countries are third world, but that doesn’t for an instant mean they are dangerous. Have fun. Try new things. Sweat your pores out. You’ll never forget your trip to Southeast Asia and after reading this your fears or concerns should be lessened if not non existent. It’s alright to be a little nervous, as my mother once told me, “If you’re weren't a little scared, you wouldn’t be human.”
